Mar 23

Trade'r in? Yup! Nope! Whaaat?
When trading a vehicle there are four categories that will clearly affect the value of your vehicle; (1) Current market value. This is an adjustment amount to the book value that is made by the vehicle appraiser and occurs when there are real time changes in the market that are not readily reflected in current book values. One powerful example is the energy crisis that came along in the fall of 1973. Many consumers panicked (mildly) and began trading their gas hogs for fuel efficient smaller vehicles. As the extent of the crisis and its duration were unknown, and there were no real predictions as to the short and long term effects, most dealers looked on the gas hogs with an eye of concern, specifically in relation to their dollar value. I counseled many buyers during that time, encouraging them to be patient and wait it out. Most of them, nearly all, traded anyway. They received as little as 50% of the book value for their gas hogs and paid over retail in many cases to purchase a fuel efficient vehicle. Many of those people returned to the market within a short period of time and traded their fuel sippers for gas hogs. Again, values were adjusted to allow for the glut of small vehicles on the dealers lot. There are always current market value adjustments whether just at a dealership, in a city, an area, a state, a region, or across the country. These adjustments may be as simple as a dealership being overstocked with used vehicles due to some internal problem; therefore the dealer has to pay less for vehicles currently being traded in. An area may be affected by an economical crisis that overall affects the consumers ability or willingness to spend money. Wars and rumors of war have a strong negative effect on vehicle values, as does the price of fuel. One major factor that affects the value of trade-ins are the deals being offered on new vehicles. The greater the deal on new, the less is paid for the trade. Why? Used vehicle buyers will step up to new vehicles and pass on the late model used vehicles. In many cases payments on a new vehicle may be roughly the same as a one year old used.  Additionally, consumers may determine that they are better off trading their current vehicle sooner than intended, taking advantage of the factory incentives, and driving off in a new vehicle with payments close to where they were, and offsetting maintenance expenditures in the process. (2) Dealership attitude. Vehicle values may be affected simply by some issue within a dealership. An inexperienced Used Vehicle Department manager, a poor cash flow in the dealership, a weak sales force not selling vehicles, and other situations. One thing learned when purchasing at an auction, talking with a wholesaler, or shopping a trade-in to another dealership is that prices vary widely across the board. Realistically I have witnessed value swings by as much as $2000.00. (3) Dealership wants. In some circumstances a dealer may not want your trade. You might have a very expensive trade, the dealer does not want to tie up money in a slow seller and the dealer cannot find a home for it with another dealer. Therefore to make a deal he will hit the trade low expecting to find a home for it at the auction, with another dealer, or attempt to cheap sell it on his own lot. Regardless, the vehicle may bring several thousand dollars below book, your loss. (4) Dealership need. The dealership may not need “another one of those”. Some vehicles are a glut on the market. An example would be the dumping of a rental car fleet at the auction, everyone buys them, everyone has one, and no one needs another one. Dealership want and dealership need may also swing in your favor. There were many times that I paid over book (more than $1200.00) to own a vehicle, knowing that if I did not, someone else would, and I would miss the sale on three vehicles; (1) my vehicle, (2) the trade-in, and (3) the trade-in on that one. Instead of missing business, I would make three profits. It should be clear that; (1) you must know the value of your vehicle to do business with it; (2) the book value is affected by other circumstances, some of which are beyond your control. However, because you know the value of your vehicle you have an idea of where you should be, and by shopping more than one dealership (if you don’t get the value up front) there is a very good chance you will get your money. It is absolute that you use a professional source to determine the value of your vehicle prior to shopping for your next vehicle. If you had a wad of $10.00 bills in your pocket, a big wad, and you wanted to trade them for $50.00 bills, and if you had never counted them, how would you possibly know how many $50.00 bills to get in return for your 10’s? Would you just throw them out there and take back whatever 50’s were offered? Or would you count them ahead of time, separate them in $50.00 packets, band all the packets together, and put in writing the total amount of all the packets, put that slip of paper with your packet, and put one in your pocket? Would you then watch as the other party counted your 10’s, and as the 50’s were counted out for you? Wise folks count their money first, record the amount, and observe while others handle their money! Chuck Norlin is a 41 year veteran of negotiating, a Cal U and General Motors University graduate, and 30 year career expert in the retail vehicle business.
Source: www.ArticlePros.com

Demystifying The Tire Sidewall Code
So, you need new tires for your car or truck, but how do you know what to buy? What do all those alphanumeric codes printed on the tire sidewalls mean, anyway? If you’re in the market for new tires, you may simply want to replace your worn tires with exactly the same tire it came with. But you MAY want to consider an upgrade. If you know how to read the tire sidewalls, chock full of valuable information, you’ve got an advantage over most people and are prepared to make an informed decision. So let’s get underway! Tire Size Markings (example: P215/65R15 89H) Broken down: P = Passenger Other designations are LT = Light Truck T = Temporary (spare tire) 215 is the width (in millimeters) of the tire from sidewall to sidewall. A wider tire has more grip but the bad news is that you lose fuel economy, hear more noise and the tires don’t work as well in the rain. 65 is the aspect ratio The aspect ratio is the ratio of sidewall height to tire width. With regards to aspect ratio, the larger the number, the taller the tire sidewall. Tall (60-75) is great for a quiet ride but causes howling in turns. Short (35-55) is better for handling–more for sports cars. R indicates Radial. This means it is constructed with a series of support belts sideways under the tread. Other designations include B for Belted Bias and D for Diagonal Bias The standard, and what you’ll see most often, is R. 15 is the wheel (or rim) diameter, in inches. 89 is the load index H is the speed rating Speed ratings indicate the top speed under ideal conditions. Higher-rated tires are usually made of softer rubber and will have shorter UTQG tread life. Here are a few of the more common speed ratings: R= 106, S=112, T=118, U=124, H=130, V=149, W=168, Y=186. Along with this speed rating, you have a load index which indicates the approximate weight the tire can carry. Some of the more common load weights are as follows: 85 = 1,135 pounds, 86 = 1,168 pounds, 87 = 1,201 pounds, 88 = 1,235 pounds. UTQG Ratings Passenger car tires are accompanied by a UTQG Rating (Uniform Tire Quality Grading, mandated by the Federal Government) which rates the tread life of tires by looking at tread wear, traction and temperature resistance. The UTQG Rating is usually found opposite the tire size markings and will be in three separate ratings: treadwear, traction and temperature. The treadware grade standard is 100. A grade of 200 means the tread would wear twice as well as a tire graded 100. Traction grades run from AA to C, with AA being the highest grade and C meaning the tire brakes poorly on both wet concrete and wet asphalt. Temperature grades rate the tire’s resistance to and ability to dispel heat. Those grades are A (resists heat well), B (not as good as A) and C (passes minimum safety standards.) Keep in mind that heavy loads, under-inflation of the tires, and high speeds can all affect the tire temperature. You should note that these tire grades rate tires measured under controlled conditions. Factors such as driving habits, road conditions, climate, etc., are not considerations and may affect the actual performance of your tire. DOT DOT (Department of Transportation) indicates the tire is in compliance with applicable DOT safety standards. Next to DOT is an identification or serial number–codes that designate where and when the tire was produced. You’ll also find other information on the sidewall such as the type and composition of the tire, the maximum cold inflation (PSI) and maximum load in pounds. So as you can see, tires carry a huge amount of information. But it’s really not all that complicated once you learn to read the code. Debbie Pettitt is webmaster for Everything Tires, your tire resource. For more information on tires, visit http://everythingtires.com
Source: www.ArticlePros.com